Croatia – Exploiting Life

Saturday in Zadar

Weekends are hit and miss in Europe. In one city, they may have a bustling weekend atmosphere but in the next, it’s impossible to find anything open, including for food! Well, folks, Zadar is the latter which proved to be a blessing to my waistline and pocketbook, and made for unexpected delights.

My Saturday started off a little late after a lovely all night chat with some great old friends so I decided to take advantage of the empty city to walk (hobble – still sore) to the sea and around the outer wall of the city into places I’ve not been before. Meandering the entirely empty cobblestone streets was refreshing to the soul. I had the chance to peek into shop windows without any pressure to buy and stare as long as I wanted at the small details that make Croatia so mesmerizing. This was, of course, after the walk into old town wearing my sundress because it was 60 degrees and sunny. You’d have thought I had blood all over myself the way people stopped and gawked at the pasty white crazy half-naked lady! Ha! Keep your puffy jackets on, folks, I won’t judge. 🙂

I kind of want to replicate this door somewhere in our home!

I feel like every city has a color and this beautiful blue is Zadar’s signature. As are cats.

It was when reaching the sea I noticed a long row of folks evenly spaced with their fishing rods cast far into the ocean. It didn’t take long to notice the moderators and the flag announcing a sport fishing competition. Although I saw exactly zero fish caught, it was a great way to start the day!

Just around the corner of the city wall, I became captivated by the sweet melody of opera music, though I didn’t yet know where it was coming from. The city wall used to provide security and now it serves to hide treasures just waiting to be discovered like the below fisherman and his poodle. He was happily untangling his net while listening to enchanting music in the sun. I could have watched him all day!

Imperial Fountain, built in the 16th century to supply ships with fresh water.

Anyhow, I’d made my way to the beachy area of Zadar and found myself a bit further away from the Sea Organ than I’d planned. With my bum leg, I knew I didn’t have time to get back to the apartment for pants and make it to the organ by sunset so I gave in and called Uber. The driver was very friendly and open, suggesting I visit the beautiful city of – he pronounced it Neen – for it’s beautiful stone architecture. Because of the lift, I made it to the organ in time to see the sunset for which I have no adequate words. The pictures below will never compare to the actual experience (zero filters), but trust me, it was a perfect example of why Alfred Hitchcock said that Zadar has the most beautiful sunsets in the world!

I can’t help myself saying hello to anyone I overhear with an American accent, though I’ve also mistaken some Canadians in this manner. OF COURSE the Canadians take no offense and even apologize to me for my own assumptions. Great people! While watching the explosions of color in the sky, I noticed two women taking turns with their pictures so I offered to help. What a great choice that was! We ended up talking about travel and life for hours, having found kindred spirits in each other. These two are sisters who love to travel, including one enjoying planning as much as, if not more than, I do! Anjal and Tejal were heading south to Dubrovnik for the rest of their trip and I decided then and there to take the Uber driver up on his suggestion for Sunday. I slept very well for a full five hours that night, in bliss, even though I again forgot to get a selfie with these beautiful souls!

Four Vacation Goals

I started this trip with four goals but I think I’ll add a fifth now that I’m here…

To summarize, the goals are:

Learn about the Yugoslav Homeland war
Improve my very limited Croatian vocabulary (and pronunciation!!)
Engage in activities I enjoy but in which hubs has no interest
Find good Croatian food – finally
*Honorary number five is GET SLEEP!

Goal 1: Learn about the Yugoslavian war from 1991-1998ish where Yugoslavia was disseminated and again became individual governs (some STILL in flux – like Kosovo)

That war had a profound impact on me as an early teen in the States. It introduced me to struggles people faced that were incomprehensible to me. I remember being angry. I was angry that entire peoples were fighting for their lives, losing that fight, or being held captive over politics, power, and greed. I wanted to become a photojournalist because of that war. It also instilled in me a righteous sense of equal rights. I was young and impressionable, but now I’m older and still angry.

In previous visits to Croatia, I could not find a soul who would even acknowledge that there was ever a conflict. Everyone I’d meet would clam right up if I even skirted the subject; they all wanted to put it in the past. I could not do that, it nagged at me, as do many things outside my purview. Even what I’d found online didn’t give me what I craved, which I now understand is impossible. I want to know why. Why families had to be torn apart. Why the desire to become a democracy has to be so violent. Why so many people had to sacrifice their lives and futures.

In my planning, I found that the Croatian History Museum in Zagreb had an exhibition explicitly on the Homeland War and all but did cartwheels! Alas, Google isn’t always your friend. When I finally found my way to the museum (between getting distracted and not having live maps), I found that particular exhibition was temporary and has been gone for 3 years. Sigh. I did, however, lightly peruse their gorgeous exhibition on the first World War and the Austro-Hungarian regime and met some kick ass ladies who caretake the museum. I left with a beautiful book on the Homeland war and an even deeper hole to fill inside myself.

On my way home that very evening, I found exactly what I was looking for; the Images of War Photography Museum. This place was TWO tiny blocks from my apartment! The owner had a vision to bring the war to life without bias so all the photos displayed were from multiple perspectives, not just those of Croatians.

I cried. A LOT. The photography was visually incredible and the stories told were heart wrenching. No matter which side someone might be on, these photos fill one with misery. Even the momentary victors seemed to see the shame.

I won’t delve any deeper into this subject because it is terrible and intense and important and relevant and and and and I’m not going to become a political blogger. I will, however, make myself a bag or TShirt with the slogan from that moment: War Belongs in a Museum.

Goal 2: Learn Croatian

Ha! In the tourist cities of Croatia, English is everywhere. It’s been easy to communicate using various amounts of hand gestures and facial expressions to aid in any language barriers. Since I’m like most Americans, that makes me feel indulgently lazy! The folks here speak, read, and write at least two languages fluently. My excuse to not being able to speak the language of my destination is that Europe has SO FREAKING MANY languages and I couldn’t possibly master them all. But since this is my third time to this beautiful and diverse country, I really should get on board…

I’ve mastered the accent which requires me to speak an octave lower to get the right tone and proper syllable emphasis, but that only comes with the mastery of whichever phrase I have already practiced. So… not many. 🙂 Every Hrvat (Croatian) I’ve encountered has helped me out, even if it’s the last thing on their priority list. I’ve even seen a few smiles and giggles (yes, at my expense) which is uncharacteristic for these folks. 🙂 There are SO MANY consonants! I’m getting there, though. I was even mistakenly deduced as a Croatian descendant at the History museum because of my intentional attempt at the language. Woot!

I doubt I’ll ever become proficient and likely it won’t be necessary, but I definitely feel better for having put in some effort. 🙂

Goal 3: Do things hubs won’t want to do

Holy horseback riding, Batman! Hubs has an aversion to the big majestic animals due to an early scare but I’m a horse lover. I was lucky enough to find another kindred spirit in Zagreb. Visnja is an Architect by trade but fell in love with horses as an adult. She is so enamored by these fabulous creatures that she shares her passion with the interested and curious in her off time. Sharing the joy of her beautiful horse, Kuban, was an absolutely fantabulous time! I’d been with horses as a young’n but hadn’t kept it up, having only last ridden on our honeymoon (another story for another time…). Kuban is absolutely and rightly spoiled with apples, love, and sugar (both figuratively and literally). He’s a sweet boy who loves his keeper and is also a very calm soul who let this re-introduced newbie on his back and even followed my direction! I am extremely sore and bruised. I want a ranch! 😀

Next non hubs loving activity: Swimming in the open ocean!

Goal 4: Finding food in Croatia which isn’t introduced as “meat plate” on the menu

Um, well, I can’t fault Zagreb for the crazy schedule I kept during my first few days, but the best dinner I had there was when I picked up prosciutto, tuna pate, olives, cheese, and packaged crostini from the local grocery store to eat at the apartment.

Tonight, at the touristic “fast food” stand right next to my apartment in Zadar, I had the best tuna melt I think I’ve EVER tasted! On to more seafood!!!

Goal 5:

I hope to be getting there shortly. One would think that walking MANY MILES a day and sleeping almost none that I would be passed out each night. Nope. Missing my family and having this gorgeous opportunity in front of me has interfered with the need to get shut eye. So I’m about to try again.

Thanx for reading, folks, I’ll be back soon with more! Oh, wait… update on steps as promised: Weds = 17,373 and Thurs = 26,549 (neither of which include the two hours on a horse for the first time in a decade – I am SORE!!!

Zagreb, day 1

So I’ve been in Zagreb for 28 hours and have slept many of them! On a trip like this, I don’t plan anything for the first day because… Jet lag.

I did, however, find the type of energy that only avails itself when in a new and exciting location! After walking the short jaunt from my apartment to the city center, I had my first Croatian coffee in THREE YEARS! As always, it was the best.

Croatians have one pastime: drinking coffee. Watching the locals from my high stool vantage point, I could spy plenty of older ladies and gents just quietly sit and watch the crowds (or lack thereof; this city is empty until May) with a tiny cup of coffee… For hours.

It’s been a beautiful day and I walked most of the city in just a few hours. Already plenty of highlights including the Dolac market and the mushroom museum. When I get some more time and umph, I’ll tell you of them all…

For now, I’m off to sleep before taking my excited self out to the country tomorrow for horseback riding on a day that’s supposed to be near 80. Wish me luck!

Oh, and because I promised to keep track and post… I had 20,791 steps yesterday and 17,373 today.