Tag: Latvia

Holy market, Batman! In Riga, Latvia, I went the wrong way getting off the bus… again. Although this misdirection made me cross multiple train tracks, putting my poor luggage through the ringer, then landed me in the middle of traffic, it also showed me the amazing Riga central market! It’s like I stepped into a new world, it was so full of life! This place is not only the spot for fresh produce, meat, and seafood, oh no. You can find sneakers and sweaters and pots and fishing poles and jewelry and plants and BBQs and diapers and and and and… In 1922, before the rise of retail shopping, Riga started planning this mammoth market and bazaar. Once finished, it became the cultural, social, and economic center of the city and region. (Vegetarians, skip to the next paragraph) The giant building dedicated to meat (yes, just meat, there are other giant buildings for seafood, etc…) was an assault on my senses; so much that I started immediately salivating. Pork is the big meat in Latvia, but there were racks and cases full of lots of clean, fresh flesh. Sausages and salami dominated at least a quarter of the place with so much variety, I’d never be able to choose. If I’d have been there longer, oh the picnics I would have had! I’m sorry to say that I have no pictures to share with you, I was too busy gawking, myself.

The market is likely the only spot in or near old town where you can find the little old Latvian ladies chatting (gossiping and arguing, mostly) in actual Latvian. This language is so much more familiar to me than that of Estonia, they actually have some consonants! Of course being there only four days, I learned nothing more than please and thank you, but reading signs and hearing snippets of conversation, I felt that I could eventually get in on the action were I to stay longer. The words were reminiscent of my high school Spanish, so when I went to wander the bigger city, I felt infinitely more comfortable that I could cobble together enough brain power to get back to where I started.

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In a lucky turn of events, I met an English speaking couple on the bus when we were all terribly confused as to what the hell the bus driver was saying in Estonian. These two are kick ass people who are intelligent and dorky, so obviously my spirit animals. Having been in near seclusion for the previous couple weeks, meeting kindred spirits was a welcome delight! We toured Riga together and found the city holds a ton of charm. One evening, we stumbled on a cute outdoor restaurant with live music and spent hours watching, listening, and sometimes singing. Between the great song choices, the little girls in pink who had no fear, and the very talented folks who took advantage of the small dancing area, we were completely entertained; It’s when the band would play a Latvian song, the entire crowd perked up. Wow! Normally, I’d expect the crowd to be solely tourists, but there were obviously a ton of locals both seated and crowding around the venue to wiggle and hum along with great big smiles. Incredible.

Wandering the cobblestone streets and secret passageways in Riga was a joy made infinitely better having good folks along. We wandered past the oldest houses in Riga, called the “Three Brothers” which are leaning slightly and dwarfed by the cathedrals built in their neighborhood. We also learned about the only synagogue in Riga which was not destroyed during WWII, but only because it was uncharacteristically attached to the buildings next to it. There’s a beautiful, eclectic suite of buildings called the “Blackheads” (yes, please insert pimple joke here) which is the place where the young, unmarried dudes would hold their union meetings and make decisions. By meetings, I mean parties. By decisions, I mean suggestions for the older, married dudes who actually made city decisions over in another building. Over the centuries, with different architectural and theology influences impacting the region, different elements were added to the facade, creating this quirky exterior.

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One thing about most of the buildings and sites in Riga is that they’re not original. Most of them have been rebuilt or re-imagined multiple times, so much so that it’s become a city joke. Even the captivating St Peter’s church only last resumed services after reconstruction in 1991. Much of this has to do with major fires in the city and bombings. Yah, the residents of Riga are resilient! There’s a story about four older farm animals who make a break through the fence in their home to find a better life and the moral is how working together, we can accomplish more than we could alone. This story was made more popular by the Brothers Grimm and called “Town Musicians of Bremen”. An artist from Bremen, Germany made a lovely sculpture of these resilient animals and gifted it to Riga to provide continued support to the city through their challenges with the iron curtain.

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Riga is a coastal town, making it a natural port of commerce throughout the ages and water just makes everything prettier and greener. I had the opportunity to see the city from a few different vantage points, including the top of their Academy of Science where the smart kids learn. This building is an imposing structure, visible from all over the city with an observation deck at 19 stories up. I spent a socially uncomfortable amount of time up there. Once I outlasted the professional photographer, I figured it was time for lunch with a satisfied smile on my face. After viewing the city from up high, I stumbled on a boat tour of the Daugava River which intersects the city. I mentioned before that the Baltics are flat, so even from the boat, I could still see for miles. The river’s edges are dotted with marshy land, growing beautiful grasses and water lilies. Whether a marsh or sand beach, the river’s banks are popular for fishing, camping, and swimming. With miles and miles of undeveloped riverfront, the area is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts and parents of energetic littles. It was a chilly and windy day, but I still waved (as you do if you’re a dork on a boat) to multiple sets of folks enjoying their time on or near the water.

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I eventually did head inside because I was on a mission to see the work of a very talented Riga resident – Olegs Auzers. Olegs works with silver and creates these works of art which are not only beautiful and delicate, but thought provoking, as well. It seems his theme is to promote love and unity, while acknowledging that conflict exists and suggests ways to deal with that conflict more effectively and humanely. He’s now 70 years old with a 5 year old kid, so this guy’s got passion which is evident in the spectacular visages he crafts. His most popular piece is a castle of theologies which is more than twice as large as the second largest silver sculpture. It depicts a timeline of working together throughout the years as we move into a better place, called “Castle of the Future, the Year of 3001”. Silver is a difficult medium; the artist has to heat up the entire piece in order to make even the smallest of tweaks or additions. When you’re talking about a piece that’s made up of over 66 pounds of silver, you can imagine how many heart palpitations are generated when it’s getting a new addition! He doesn’t only work on the castle, he’s smithed jewelry for the Queen of England, gift platters for worldwide peace keeping, and so much more. Latvia considers him a national treasure in his ability to bring love and harmony through his work. I’ll post some of my pictures here, but they will do absolutely no justice to the incredible artistry in this work.

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Across the river from old town is a striking building I couldn’t help but stop to stare at every time I had the chance. The National Library of Latvia was designed by a Latvian American architect and stands out as a symbol of the future. I didn’t have a chance to go inside, but this building holds more than 5 million titles and employs almost 500 people. Sitting in a cafe in old town, eating Latvian food, and staring over the river at this intriguing building could become a favorite pastime of mine…

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It was bittersweet to leave Riga. I really enjoyed my time there, both the time with the crazy folks I can now call friends and the charming city with delicious food and perfect summer weather were wonderful experiences, but it’s time to find more adventure!

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