Tag: Uzupis

Vilnius Lithuania is the largest of the Baltic capital cities and doesn’t sport so much of a dedicated Old Town as a Where’s Waldo of historical sites tucked into the city. I was able to stay for over a week in a neighborhood barely this side of gentrification so it gave me the opportunity to explore further afield just by the nature of its location. Vilnius is chock full of charm and I got to see a bunch of it this way. I also got heaps of exercise which was absolutely necessary since the food is amazing!

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The first thing that struck me was just how much Lithuanians LOVE their “pink soup”. It’s this delightful cold concoction made with plenty of fresh red beets and kefir (if you don’t know kefir yet, think liquid yogurt or buttermilk – pure yumminess!). Sometimes you’ll find cucumbers, green onions, boiled eggs, or other flavor add ins. You can’t blink without seeing it on a menu, hearing it spoken on the street (or by one of your brothers), or just watching the empty pink stained bowls being carted back into the kitchen. This stuff is everywhere and for good reason, it’s delicious! Throw in a side of potatoes and some protein and you’ve got yourself a winning meal. Beets are a popular vegetable for recipes here, but being the middle of the summer, unlike the blueberries the size of my fist, beets weren’t readily available at the farmers’ markets, possibly because they had to sell what was available to local restaurants to avoid riots??

One cannot subsist on pink soup alone but it’s easy to find options to suit any palate in Lithuania. Dumplings and sausages come in many forms, oftentimes accompanied by some sort or other of garbanzo beans or potatoes and a big dollop of sour cream rounds out the meal. Lithuanian culture is obvious in the food options, heavily influenced by Polish and Ukrainian flavors. For instance, you can’t leave the country without ordering a cepelinai which is a filling (usually ground meat or vegetables and spices) surrounded by a potato mash. They’re called cepelinai because their shape resembles zeppelin balloons. There’s also no shortage of vegetarian, vegan, gluten free, etc… dietary options, either. In summary, eating is a fun pastime in Vilnius. I’m cheating and have provided you some sample menu pages below from a restaurant I frequented due to its Lithuanian bent, location in a great people watching spot, good service, and generally good food execution.

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Being under communist rule for so long, when the curtain fell, having the right to their own identity in all things was of utmost importance. Part of the reason Lithuania became the first country to gain independence from the USSR is because of the way they protested with such fervor. Vilnius was the beginning of the longest human chain in (at that time) history, assembled with over 2M people and nearly 420 miles of unbroken human flesh, often referred to as The Baltic Way as it encompassed Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia, ending in Tallinn. It’s with delight and some amusement to witness the physical manifestation of that freedom throughout the city. Whether it’s a mural of Trump and Putin sharing a joint or a giant brass sculpture of Stalin with a pig snout, these folks show they are free!

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Vilnius is a vibrant city in general with art installations as far as the eye can see, including re-purposing a broken down industrial area into a giant open air gallery and music venue while the buildings are being rebuilt.

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One group took their love of art and bohemia one step further and declared themselves and independent nation with their own currency and laws, filled with… you guessed it – Artists. Welcome to the Republic of Užupis, but only if you smile. On their independence day, April 1 (1998), not only is there a giant party, but you are checked at the bridge to verify there’s a smile on your face or else be denied entry.

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What a beautiful and welcoming community they’ve created, taking “laid back” to a new level. What once was a completely run down section of the city where squatters had destroyed what was left of the buildings, is now a beautifully colorful and lively spot to express oneself. Just walking down the street, you can feel the warmth; strangers being invited to play with paint without fear of solicitation to buy something, just to explore their inner creativity. My little piece wasn’t museum quality, but it sure did make me happier for having experienced it and the lady handing out the tools was the epitome of joy, smiling with every fiber.

The flag of Užupis is simply an open palmed hand with a hole in the middle to signify keeping an open mind. This is repeated in symbols throughout the small nation to remind everyone what they stand for. No matter the medium, art is god, here; Sculpting, painting, music, poetry, interior design, practicing kindness, you name it! They started the nation with a 12 person military in order to keep the peace as they were forming, but eventually realized they no longer needed any type of force and instead, erected a beautiful lady angel in the center of the nation to watch over its residents. Užupis is translated as “across the river” since that’s where it’s located in terms of Vilnius. No overthinking allowed. It’s tempting to move in right away.

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Due to politics, Vilnius was not always the capital of Lithuania, even during the years Lithuania was a country; at more than one time, the nearby city of Kaunas was the country’s seat. I made my way over there one day since it’s only about 100km west and took a peek at the city. The Old Town is intersected with a wide, scenic promenade but at the time of my visit, the entire promenade was under construction and blocked off with fencing. Since the charm of Old Town wasn’t so evident, I just walked the outer city streets and didn’t get much of a chance to learn, so instead, here are some Kaunas pictures. 🙂

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