Prague and the Persnickety

When you say you’re heading to The Czech Republic, or Czechia as they are actively trying to re-brand, folks give you a quizzical look. Soooo you give them a helpful “Used to be part of the former Czechoslovakia?” and eventually you’ll get the slight head nod of some recognition. BUT say you’re going to Prague and Americans’ eyes get a sparkle and sometimes a little sigh escapes their lips. Well, bonus points to anyone who knows Prague is the capital of Czechia!

There’s no wonder why people are keen to visit Prague. It is often referred to as a romantic city with its gothic and baroque architecture, the wide Vltava river winding through the city, the picturesque Charles Bridge, and the region’s tumultuous history. In addition to the romanticism, recent marketing has pinned Prague as a cheap destination for travelers. I had the opportunity to spend a few nights in Prague at the beginning and end of my Czechian visit and below are my findings.

This post title is appropriate because I have a few quirks that not all people have and I promise those quirks influenced my opinion of this popular spot. Quirks:

1. I despise overcrowding
2. I travel for experiences
3. HOT (warm, even, to some) WEATHER MAKES ME MISERABLE and therefore cranky
4. I like to eat good food

Quirks Engage: My first attempt to learn about the culture and history was on a sunny morning mid-week in September during a heat wave and I’d joined a walking tour. Unfortunately, almost every inch of the vast town square was covered with tourists and guides and street performers. With that mass of people with their body heat and breathing, coupled with the blazing ball of gas in the sky, quirks 1 and 3 were triggered. I decided to skip the tour – read that as “run away quickly before I turned on my fellow humans”. The weather forecast told me it was to cool down in short order and my next city visit is only a couple hours away, so I could easily come back to learn some stuff. (this never did happen which is why this post is light on facts and heavy on opinion)

While walking through town to remove myself from the main throbbing mass, it was slow going because I had to navigate around numerous humans crowded into the many, many shopping options in the narrow streets. Trigger alert for quirks 1 and 2 GO! By now, I realized I wasn’t going to be happy with the day and decided to go back to my room and nap through the heat and see what I could salvage in the next 24 hours. This turned out to be the right choice.

After my crank-reducing nap, I found what I consider the best Indian restaurant I’ve ever eaten in (I’ve never been to India; excited for that someday) just around the corner! I chatted with some Indian American folks from LA who agreed that this was THE place in Prague for yummy goodness. Finally, a Prague win on quirk 4!

Quirk Mitigation: What better way to avoid crowds, aggressive shoppers, and heat than to get up before the sun!?! Done. As I walked through the darkness into old town around 5am, the only other people I came across either worked for city maintenance or were young’ns stumbling out of still open bars. I had the place almost entirely to myself. Glorious, glorious space! Although I didn’t have an escort to teach me things, what I could see with my own eyes was absolutely mesmerizing!

The squares and buildings were fabulously sans humans and watching the sun rise over the aforementioned romantic structures was awe inspiring. I gaped and walked for hours and miles, all before I had to meet my bus in late morning.

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I walked across the Charles Bridge which engaged couples famously use as a backdrop in their wedding photos.

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I spun in happy circles in the main Town Hall square, scaring sleeping pigeons into flight.

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I stumbled on interesting Prague street art and other paraphernalia, laughing out loud to myself at times.

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I climbed the bazillion steps to the Prague Castle without another soul seeing the sweat rolling down my face as I took picture after picture of the castle compound and inspiring views below.

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Prague is GORGEOUS!

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On my return night, I also got to experience the city itself, outside the old town hustle and bustle. Yes, there are still crowds and lines and shops of all kinds, but there’s a quieter, more relaxed side as well. I’m very grateful to have had the opportunity to visit this romantic city overall, but where, oh, where is the good and cheap food?!?!